Mervil (Merv) Knutson
N 2758 Shadow Rd
Waupaca, WI 54981-9497
Ph 715 258-8785
Fax 715 258-6002
m-knutson@sbcglobal.net
N 2758 Shadow Rd
Waupaca, WI 54981-9497
Ph 715 258-8785
Fax 715 258-6002
m-knutson@sbcglobal.net
Textile Glossary Page 3 of 3 Pages
Mohair: Comes from the Angora goat, one of oldest animals known to man, it is
two-and-one-half times as strong as wool and outwears it. Come from South Afnca. Western
Asia. Turkey, and California. Oregon. and Texas in this country, with Kenviile, Texas. the
center of the industry in Amenca. Foreign mohair is nine to twelve inches long and allowed a
full years growth belore shearing. California and Texas mohair are sheared twice a year since
the fibers would fall out if allowed a one year growth. Uses include fancy dress goods, felt
hars, linings, plushes, and in blended yarns for use in mens and wornens suiting fabrics.
Moire Base Cloth: Must be a faille. A finish achieved with engraved rollers which press the
design into the fabnc. causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect light differently
(called "Water-Marked'". Sometimes it is done with fabric folded the length of the goods
leaving a center crease more often folded with crease on the width of the goods and fabnc cut
at this fold eliminating a center crease. Natural Fibers: Those ftbers which come from cotton,
wool, silk and Fax (linen). Ombre: A fabric woven with shades of one color from light to dark in
the warp, usually creating a striped effect. Ottoman: A firm lustrous plain weave fabric with
horizontal cords which are larger or rounder than those of a faille. The fine warp totally covers
the heavier filling. Panne: A satin-faced. velvet or silk material named from the French 'or
"plush," which has a high luster made possible by the tremendous roller- pressure treatment
given the matenial in finishing. Pilling: Formation of fiber fuzz balls on a fabric surface by wear
or firction. Plisse: A fabric with a crinkied or puckered affect. generally in the direction ot the
warp, which is created either by tension weaving or through the application of a caustic soda
solution which shrinks part ot the yarns on the back of the cloth. Pocket Weave: A jacquard
double-layered fabric with several warps. The design is created with both warps and fillings.
Polished Cotton: A plain weave cotton cloth characterized by a sheen ranging from dull to
bright. polish can be achieved either through the weave or the addition of a resin finish. Can
be a solid color, usually piece dyed or printed. Ramic Base fiber: From thc ramie plant. Similar
to Flax out more brittle. Used chiefly for table linen. Repp Plain weave fabric: With narrow ribs
running the width of the fabric. Usually a fine warp and heavier filling yarns. Sateen: A highly
lustrous fabric usually made of merchandized cotton with a satin weave. Selvage: Narrow
edge of woven fabric (warp direction) usually of stronger yarns or denser construction than
body of coth. Shantung: A cousin lo Satin. The difference lies in the use of a yarn of the varied
thickness which gives the fabric a nubby texture. It is also known as Antique Satin. Shuttle:
The boat-like device which carries the filling yarn wound on the bobbin which sees in the
shuttle from a shuttle box on one side of the raceplate of the loom. through the shed. and into
a shuttle box at the other side of the loom. Filling interlaces with the warp yarns to make
weaving possible. Silk: The only natural fiber that comes in a filament form: from 300 to 1,600
yards in length as reeled from the cocoon, cultivated or wild. When the silkworm begins its
spinning, two filaments are emitted from the "silk ducts" which are covered by SILK GUM or
SERICIN from the sacks before they come from the mouth. As the liquid is emitted by the
silkworm, it solifies on contact with the air. A single filiments called BRINS. The twofiliments by
this time are cemented togather by the silk gum or sericin. A solidified filament is called
FIBROIN or SLIK. The two filiments joined togather are know as the CACOON TREATMENT or
BAVE. Spinning: This final operation in yarn manufacture consists of the drawing, twisting,
and the winding or the newly spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle, cop. tube.
cheese, etc. Spinning requires great care by all operatives involved. Mule and ring spinning
are the two major methods today, and in addition to being spun on these methods, worsted
yard is also spun on the cap and flyer flame methods ot producing finished spun yarn. Strie:
Said of a cloth which has irregular stripes or streaks of practically the same color in the
background. Each yarn in the motif is dyed a solid color. runs in the warp direction of the
goods, and produces a mottled effect. Synthetics: Man-made, sciennfically produced fibers
used in many fabncs. Some types of synthetics are: rayon, nylon, polyester, and fiberglass.
Taffeta: A fine, plain tabby weave fabric. usually with a sheen on its surface. Tapestry: A heavy
jacquard fabric usually multicolored. Warps and filling very tightly woven. The designs vary
from traditional to contemporary. Used for upholstery only. Taslan Toile De Jouy: A floral or
scenic design usually pnnted on cotton or linen. Originally printed in Jouy, France, the fabrics
were printed in single colors from engraved copper plates. the designs were characterized by
classic moafs beautifully engraved and finely colored. Today, some are muitico- lored. Tufting
Yarn: Hooked by needle into fabric structure usually at a very high speed developed initially
for carpeting. Recently developed for upholstery fabric. Tussah: Sometimes called "Wild Silk'
it is the product of the uncultivated silkworm-- more uneven, coarser and stronger than true or
cultivated silk. Tussah takes dye poorly and is therefore often woven in its natural color. which
ranges from ecru to dark brown. Considerable color variance within each length is not
unusual and is considered an intrinsic characteristic of the fabnc. Union Cloth: A plain weave
fabric made from two or more different fibers. most often a cotton warp and a linen filling.
Urethane Upholstery: A name for a group of organic chemical compounds or resins such as
polyesters and polyethers. These compounds make up the skin which is bonded to a cotton
backing. Velour: A term loosely applied to all types of fabrics with a nap or cut pile on one
side. Specificaily. it is a cut pile fabric similar to regular velvet but with a higher pile. Velvet: A
pile fabric with a clipped nap. Before clipping, the nap is a loop as found in frieze or boucle.
Velvet was introduced during the Renaissance in Italy and Spain and later moved to France.
Designs can be woven into it. They can aiso be made by cutting velvet nap into different
lengths or by cutting different lengths over a pattern. Vinyl Upholstery: A polyvinyl chloride
film with a fabric backing. Warp: The yarns which run vertically or lengthwise in woven goods.
Weaves: Two basic methods of weaving upholstered fabrics. Each needs different equipment.
a. Flat Weave Tweeds. Matelasse and Tapestries b. Pile Weave Velvets Yarns: In order to
weave a fabric, the fiber or blend of fibers must first be made into a yarn. Yarns vary in size
and shape, both of which have an effect on the appearance of the fabric.
The end of page 3 of 3 Pages Go to page 1-------go to page 2
Mohair: Comes from the Angora goat, one of oldest animals known to man, it is
two-and-one-half times as strong as wool and outwears it. Come from South Afnca. Western
Asia. Turkey, and California. Oregon. and Texas in this country, with Kenviile, Texas. the
center of the industry in Amenca. Foreign mohair is nine to twelve inches long and allowed a
full years growth belore shearing. California and Texas mohair are sheared twice a year since
the fibers would fall out if allowed a one year growth. Uses include fancy dress goods, felt
hars, linings, plushes, and in blended yarns for use in mens and wornens suiting fabrics.
Moire Base Cloth: Must be a faille. A finish achieved with engraved rollers which press the
design into the fabnc. causing the crushed and uncrushed parts to reflect light differently
(called "Water-Marked'". Sometimes it is done with fabric folded the length of the goods
leaving a center crease more often folded with crease on the width of the goods and fabnc cut
at this fold eliminating a center crease. Natural Fibers: Those ftbers which come from cotton,
wool, silk and Fax (linen). Ombre: A fabric woven with shades of one color from light to dark in
the warp, usually creating a striped effect. Ottoman: A firm lustrous plain weave fabric with
horizontal cords which are larger or rounder than those of a faille. The fine warp totally covers
the heavier filling. Panne: A satin-faced. velvet or silk material named from the French 'or
"plush," which has a high luster made possible by the tremendous roller- pressure treatment
given the matenial in finishing. Pilling: Formation of fiber fuzz balls on a fabric surface by wear
or firction. Plisse: A fabric with a crinkied or puckered affect. generally in the direction ot the
warp, which is created either by tension weaving or through the application of a caustic soda
solution which shrinks part ot the yarns on the back of the cloth. Pocket Weave: A jacquard
double-layered fabric with several warps. The design is created with both warps and fillings.
Polished Cotton: A plain weave cotton cloth characterized by a sheen ranging from dull to
bright. polish can be achieved either through the weave or the addition of a resin finish. Can
be a solid color, usually piece dyed or printed. Ramic Base fiber: From thc ramie plant. Similar
to Flax out more brittle. Used chiefly for table linen. Repp Plain weave fabric: With narrow ribs
running the width of the fabric. Usually a fine warp and heavier filling yarns. Sateen: A highly
lustrous fabric usually made of merchandized cotton with a satin weave. Selvage: Narrow
edge of woven fabric (warp direction) usually of stronger yarns or denser construction than
body of coth. Shantung: A cousin lo Satin. The difference lies in the use of a yarn of the varied
thickness which gives the fabric a nubby texture. It is also known as Antique Satin. Shuttle:
The boat-like device which carries the filling yarn wound on the bobbin which sees in the
shuttle from a shuttle box on one side of the raceplate of the loom. through the shed. and into
a shuttle box at the other side of the loom. Filling interlaces with the warp yarns to make
weaving possible. Silk: The only natural fiber that comes in a filament form: from 300 to 1,600
yards in length as reeled from the cocoon, cultivated or wild. When the silkworm begins its
spinning, two filaments are emitted from the "silk ducts" which are covered by SILK GUM or
SERICIN from the sacks before they come from the mouth. As the liquid is emitted by the
silkworm, it solifies on contact with the air. A single filiments called BRINS. The twofiliments by
this time are cemented togather by the silk gum or sericin. A solidified filament is called
FIBROIN or SLIK. The two filiments joined togather are know as the CACOON TREATMENT or
BAVE. Spinning: This final operation in yarn manufacture consists of the drawing, twisting,
and the winding or the newly spun yarn onto a device such as a bobbin, spindle, cop. tube.
cheese, etc. Spinning requires great care by all operatives involved. Mule and ring spinning
are the two major methods today, and in addition to being spun on these methods, worsted
yard is also spun on the cap and flyer flame methods ot producing finished spun yarn. Strie:
Said of a cloth which has irregular stripes or streaks of practically the same color in the
background. Each yarn in the motif is dyed a solid color. runs in the warp direction of the
goods, and produces a mottled effect. Synthetics: Man-made, sciennfically produced fibers
used in many fabncs. Some types of synthetics are: rayon, nylon, polyester, and fiberglass.
Taffeta: A fine, plain tabby weave fabric. usually with a sheen on its surface. Tapestry: A heavy
jacquard fabric usually multicolored. Warps and filling very tightly woven. The designs vary
from traditional to contemporary. Used for upholstery only. Taslan Toile De Jouy: A floral or
scenic design usually pnnted on cotton or linen. Originally printed in Jouy, France, the fabrics
were printed in single colors from engraved copper plates. the designs were characterized by
classic moafs beautifully engraved and finely colored. Today, some are muitico- lored. Tufting
Yarn: Hooked by needle into fabric structure usually at a very high speed developed initially
for carpeting. Recently developed for upholstery fabric. Tussah: Sometimes called "Wild Silk'
it is the product of the uncultivated silkworm-- more uneven, coarser and stronger than true or
cultivated silk. Tussah takes dye poorly and is therefore often woven in its natural color. which
ranges from ecru to dark brown. Considerable color variance within each length is not
unusual and is considered an intrinsic characteristic of the fabnc. Union Cloth: A plain weave
fabric made from two or more different fibers. most often a cotton warp and a linen filling.
Urethane Upholstery: A name for a group of organic chemical compounds or resins such as
polyesters and polyethers. These compounds make up the skin which is bonded to a cotton
backing. Velour: A term loosely applied to all types of fabrics with a nap or cut pile on one
side. Specificaily. it is a cut pile fabric similar to regular velvet but with a higher pile. Velvet: A
pile fabric with a clipped nap. Before clipping, the nap is a loop as found in frieze or boucle.
Velvet was introduced during the Renaissance in Italy and Spain and later moved to France.
Designs can be woven into it. They can aiso be made by cutting velvet nap into different
lengths or by cutting different lengths over a pattern. Vinyl Upholstery: A polyvinyl chloride
film with a fabric backing. Warp: The yarns which run vertically or lengthwise in woven goods.
Weaves: Two basic methods of weaving upholstered fabrics. Each needs different equipment.
a. Flat Weave Tweeds. Matelasse and Tapestries b. Pile Weave Velvets Yarns: In order to
weave a fabric, the fiber or blend of fibers must first be made into a yarn. Yarns vary in size
and shape, both of which have an effect on the appearance of the fabric.
The end of page 3 of 3 Pages Go to page 1-------go to page 2
Textile Glossary Page 3 of 3 Pages
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