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Glossary of Textile
Terms Page 2 of 3
Pamela Knutson
N 2758 Shadow Rd
Waupaca, WI 54981-9497 Ph 715 258-8785
m-knutson@sbcglobal.net
Textile Glossary Page 2 of 3 Pages
Fibers - Generic Definations
Acetate Ingredients: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming
substance is cellulose acetate. Where not less than 92% of the hydroxyl
groups an acetylenes. The term Macerate may be used as a generic
description of the fiber.

Acrylic: A man-made fiber with soft feeling: outstanding durability, excellent
resistance to sunlight. It has excellent clean ability characteristics and takes
vivid color well. Acrylic is normally used to create velvet and plush looks in
fabrics and carpets.
Acrylic Ingredient: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance
is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of
acrylonitnie units.

Cotton Vegetable fiber: Perhaps man's oldest, fair resistance to wear and
sunlight a soft feeling, dyes well, poor resistance to soil unless treated.

Nylon: A man-made fiber, considered the strongest synthetic for upholstery
fabric. Offering the best resistance to abrasion and soil: offers a cool soft
feeling. Good clean ability characteristics.

Nylon Ingredients: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance
is a long chain synthetic polyamide in which is less than 85% of the amide.

Olefin: Another strong man-made fiber giving resistance to abrasion and stain
resistance. Good resistance to fading when solution dyed, very sensitive to
heat.

Olefin Ingredient: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber forming substance is
any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of
ethylene, propylene, or other olefin units.

Polyester: A man-made fiber, crisp and strong, excellent resistance to wear
and sunlight. Most like natural cotton in its appearance and physical
properties.

Polyester Ingredients: A manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming
substance is any long chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by
weight of an ester of a substituted aromatic carbolic acid, including but not
restricted to substituted terephthalate units.

Rayon: An economical man-made fiber, soft feeling, dyes well. fair resistance
to wear and sunlight.

Rayon Ingredient: A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose,
as well as manufactured fibers composed of regenerated cellulose in which
substituents have replaced not more than 15% of the hydrogens of the
hydroxyl groups.

Fiberglass: Fibers and yarns produced from glass and woven into flexible
fabrics. Noted for its fireproof qualities.

Fill or Filling: The threads running widthwise across a piece of fabric.

Finished Goods: Fabric that has been processed by dyeing, printing, applying
of special resins and finishes, and is ready for market.

Finishing: The process of dyeing, printing, etc.. of greige goods.

Finishing Plant: A place that dyes, prints, etc., greige goods.

Gingham: Yarn dyed combed or carded cotton fabric woven in checks, stripes
and plaids or two or more colors.

Glazed: Cotton fabrics such as chintz or tarlatan treated with starch, glue.
Paraffin, or shellac and run through a hot friction roller to give a high polish.
These types are not durable in washing. Newer, more durable methods use
synthetic resins that withstand laundering.

Greige/Gray Good: French for fabrics in unbleached, undyed state before
finishing. In U.S., gray goods are used as well.

Heat Transfer Printing: The technique of printing fabrics by transferring a
printed design from paper to fabric via heat and pressure. It's derived from the
art of daealcomania which is the process of transferring pictures or designs
from specially prepared paper to other materials such as glass. HTP paper is
the starting point for heat transfer printing. Transfer printing is used mainly on
fine knit fabrics and lightweight fabrics and is rapidly gaining in importance in
textile circles. Also being used by apparel makers on parts of garments to
enhance their fashion appeal.

Herringbone: A broken twill weave composed of vertical sections which are
alternately right hand and left hand in direction. Also called chevron weave,
especially when arranged in wide stripes.

Imberllne A Jacquard fabric: Usually a damask with a stripe woven In the
ground or as a satin overlay centered on the design. Usually three or four
stripes to a 50-inch width.

Jacquard: A method for producing elaborately patterned weaves on a
mechanical loom. It is named for the Frenchman who invented a loom which
operates somewhat like the roller on a player piano. But instead of notes, it
gives instructions to the machine on how to create the design.

Jacquard Design: A woven design made with the aid of a jacquard head (this
constitutes a jacquard loom) and may vary from simple, self-colored. spot
effects to elaborate, multicolored. all-over effects.

Knitting: Process of making fabric by interlocking series of loops of one or
more yarns.

Lainb's Wool: Elastic, soft. Resilient wool fibers obtained from lambs when
they are seven or eight months old - the first or virgin clipping from the animal.
This lofty stock is used in better grades of fabrics.

Lampas: A term describing a jacquard fabric, a term interchangeable with a
brocade or damask. Can be two-tone or multicolor, the difference being that
the design has a greater raised effect on the face of the fabric.

Leather: The skin of an animal tanned or otherwise dressed for use. Full Top
Grain, indicating the very best hides available on the world market today. Only
the finest hides, those which do not require sanding or buffing to remove
defects or imperfections, can be classified as Full top Grain. These premium
hides in their natural, unadulterated state retain the superior characteristics of
suppleness and tuftability found only in genuine Full Top Grain leather.


Linen: Flax is the plant, linen is the product from flax. The term. linen. cannot
be used except for natural fiber flax.

Lisere: A jacquard fabric usually made with a taffeta or faille ground. The
design is created by colored warp threads brought up on the face of the fabric,
leaving loose yarns on the back. These threads are sometimes clipped.

Loom: A machine on which the weaving is done. The warp (lengthwise)
threads are secured on the loom through the eyes of heddles and attached to
the loom beam at the front of the loom. The filling (crosswise) thread darts
between the warp threads as they are alternately lifted and lowered.
sometimes carried by a shuttle, sometimes propelled by air pressure, or other
methods in shuttless looms.

a. The Plain Weave: Consists of one thread over and one thread under. This
type is found in sheeting.

b. The Twill Weave: Has each warp thread passing over two or more filling
threads, with the interlacing advancing one thread on successive warps. This
type, with its "diagonal line", is found in denims.

c. The Satin Weave: Has few interlacings widely but regularly spaced, resulting
in a a lustrous "right" side and dull back. This type is found in dress goods.

d. Jacquard Design: A woven design made with the aid of a jacquard head
(this constitutes a jacquard loom) and may vary from simple, self-colored, spot
effects to elaborate, multicolored, all over effects.

Looms (Major Motions or Actions): These are shedding, picking, and
beating-up. Minor motions on looms are the take-up, let-off, and pattern. The
first three motions are linked together as follows:

a. Shedding Motion: The separating of the warp ends into an upper and lower
system of threads to permit the shuttle to pass through the space that has
been formed. The warp ends are drawn through heddle eyes in the correct
manner, and in the turning-over of the crank shaft of the loom, a shed is
formed with each turn.

b. Picking Motion: The actual passing of the shuttle through the shed of the
loom. The shuttle passes over the lowered ends of the shed and under its
raised ends. The shed permits the shuttle to pass through it and thereby
makes it possible for the shuttle to deposit the pick or filling yarn.

c. Beating-Up: The actual beating into place of the loose pick that was placed
In the shed of the loom in the picking motion. Beating-up makes each and
every deposited yarn a component part of the woven cloth, The reed beats this
pick into place with each consecutive turn of the crankshaft.

Matelasse: A jacquard fabric woven with heavy "stuffer" filling yarns to create
a puffed quilted effect


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