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Glossary of Textile
   Terms
Page 1 of 3 Pages
Textile Glossary Page 1 of 3 pages

Annure: A raised satin motif on a plain rib construction.

Barathea: A rib weave usually done in a minute brick fashion giving a
pebbly appearance.

Batlk: A method orginated in Java of resist dyeing which employs wax
as the resist. The pattern is covered with wax. and the fabric is then
dyed, producing a white design on a dyed ground. The waxed patterns
will not take the dye, and the wax is removed after dyeing. The
process is repeated
to obtain multicolored designs. The effect is sometimes imitated in
machine prints.

Blend: The combination of two or more types of staple fibers and/or
colors in one yarn. Blends are sometimes so intimate that It is difficult
to distinguish component fibers in yarn or fabric. A highly
sophisticated textile art, blending today is creating new fabric types,
performance characteristics, and dyeing and finishing effects.

Boucle: Plain weave using plied or uneven yarns with loop surface,
giving a rough appearance to the face of the cloth.

Brocid: Multicolored jacquard woven fabric with floral or figured
pattern emphasized by contrasting colors. The background may be
either satin or twill weave.

Brocatelle: A tightly woven jacquard fabric with a warp effect in the
figure which is raised to give a puffed appearance. The puff effect is
created by several kinds of fillings', tension weaving of a linen: or
nyion which shrinks after a heat process.

Catfonic: Cationic dyeable fiber is the newest tool in the fashion
designer's lot, It's a dye technique that allows certain fibers (like
nylon, or polyester)to take deep and brilliant colors. When catonic
fiber is fixed with conventional fiber, various multicolors and
cross-dye effects can be achieved from
a single dye bath.

Chenille Fabric: A fabric woven with chenille yarns which have a pile
effect similar to velvet, and when woven through various warps can
create a pile-like velvet, or. if woven on a jacquard loom, can look
similar to a cut velvet

Chevron: Broken twill or herringbone weave giving a chevron effect,
creating a design of wide "Vs " across the width of the fabric. See"
Herringbone. "

Chintz: A plain tightly woven cotton fabric with the fine yarns and
processed with a glazed finish. Used as a plain dyed fabric or a
printed fabric. The term is sometimes used for ungazed fine count
cottons. Converting the processes by which greige goods are made
into finished salable goods.

Corduroy: A pile fabric with the pile usually cut into ridges. The fabric
was developed in France and for years was a specialty of royally, thus
its name which means cord of the king.

Crewel: Chain stitch embroidery made with a fine, loosely twisted,
two-ply worsted yarn on a plain weave fabric. Done by hand, for the
most part, in the Kashmir Province of India and in England.

Crocking: Rubbing off of color from woven or printed fabrics.

Damak: Brought to Damscus by Marco Polo in 13th Century. A
jacquard woven fabric with floral or geometric patterns created with
different weave effects. Can be woven self-tone: one color warp:
different color filling. Distinguished from brocade bacause face of
fabric is flatter.

Direct Print: Pattern and ground color printed on fabric in the colors
desired, as opposed to extract printing done on a dyed cloth.
Cretonne is an example of a direct print

Dobby Fabric: With geometric figures woven in a set pattern. Similar
to, but more limited, more quickly woven, and cheaper than jacquards,
which require elaborate procedures to form patterns.

Dobby Loom: A type of loom on which small, geometric figures can be
woven in as a regular pattern. Originally this type of loom needed a
"dobby boy" who sat on the top of the loom and drew up warp threads
to term a pattern. Now the weaving is done entirely by machine. This
loom differs from a plain loom in that it may have up to thirty-two
harnesses and a pattern chain and its expensive weaving.

Dyeing of Textiles: The coloring of greige goods or fibers with either
natural or synthetic dyes. This may be done in many different ways
depending on the type of fabric (or fiber), the type of dye and the
desired result Some of the more common methods are:

a. Continuouc Dyeing - Fabric is continuously dyed. Dye lots may run
to 30.000 yards/color.

b. Jet Dyeing - Used for dyeing Polyester. Pressure kettles which
takes yes up to extremely high temperature and force dye into the
fiber.

c. Mlllltron Dyeing - Developed by Milliken & Company for continuous
pattern dyeing.

d. Piece Dyeing - Fabric is passed through the dye solution for a
specified length of time.

e. Printing - A term referring to methods of applying designs to greige
goods. Some types of printing are roller printing, screen printing, and
handblocked printing.

f. Solution Dyeing - A solution of dye is added to the liquid synthetic
before spinning it into a yarn.

g. Vat Dyeing - An insolube dye that has been made soluble is put on
the fiber and then oxidized to the original insoluble form. Average dye
lot 700 yards.

h. Yarn Dyeing - Yarn is dyed before it is woven into fabric.


Faille: A flat. ribbed fabric woven with fine yarns in the warp, with
heavier yarns in the filling.using a plain weave. The ribbed effect is
flatter than gross grain and smaller than a repp. The fabric is the base
cloth used far Moire.

Fiber: Any tough substance, natural or man-made, composed of
thread-like tissue capable of being made into yarn.

Fiber Base: Most man-made fibers are formed by forcing a syrupy
substance (about the consistency of honey) through the tiny holes of
a device called a spinneret
In their original state, the fiber-forming substances exist as solids and
there-fore must be first converted into a liquid state for extrusion.
This is achieved by dissolving them in a solvent or melting them with
heat. If they cannot be dissolved or melted directly, they must be
chemically converted into soluble derivatives.
The basic substance for the three cellulosic fibers (acetate, rayon, and
triacetate) is cellulose, which comes from purified wood pulp. It can be
dissolved for extrusion into fibers. The substances used in the
production of the noncellulosic fibers generally are melted or
chemically converted into a liquid state.

Fiber Content: The make up of the yarn content of any given fabric (
60% cotton and 40% rayon). By regulation of the Federal Trade
Commission, this information must be provided in all price lists.

Fiber Type:

a. Natural Fibers: Cotton Wool Silk Linen Hemp

b. Man-Made Flber - Generic Clawificatlon: Acetate Acrylic ' Glass
Modacrylic Nylon Olefin Polyester ' Rayon ' Saran ' Spandex 'Vinyl

Fibers - Generic Definitions

Acitate A man-made fiber with a luxurious feeling, which dyes in
brilliant colors and is economical. Bui if offers low resistance to wear
and only fair resistance to sunlight. When blended with other fibers, it
can add beauty and luster to a fabric. Acetate is seldom used in
todays fabrics.

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